Some really good fruits

Apple is also a fruit. Let’s not forget that. Even though in today's world it may have technological connections in the laboratory of plant breeders it is still a comestible and it’s a ridiculously versatile one, making appearances, some surprising, in many dishes. In the American tradition you have used or consumed it in a betty, a crisp, a crumble, a cobbler, a grunt, a buckle, a slump, a sonker, a dowdy or even a pie, to name a few of its many baked incarnations. It pops up in desserts all over the place and even makes cameo appearances in main dishes or salads. Waldorf anyone? We ought not ignore the foreign contributions to this effort, such as the tarte tatin where the ingredients are simple but the process is somewhat complexified to the point where the entirety is the apotheosis of each ingredient. Really: sugar, apples, flour, butter, egg yolk and an optional lemon. The final combination is essentially brilliant but beware that the apples are the right type to ensure that those big chunks don’t disintegrate in the baking.

This commentary also pertains to our native fruit, which the common apple IS NOT! Even as widespread and adapted as its reach is today, it was not found on the shores of North America when the first immigrants landed. They brought their own plants or seeds and from there the diversity multiplied readily, so much so that legends were created and careers made by its propagation. Its tasty precursor in very ancient times was the medlar, a primitive form of tree fruit that has to be practically rotten before it is used. The delightfully descriptive adjective “bletted” describes this state of near-decay. Needless to say medlars never really clicked like apples.

Some of our neglected native fruits deserve a little attention too. If we limit ourselves to trees, that eliminates scuppernong and concord grapes, cranberries, beach plums, raspberries, blackberries, cloudberries, blueberries and a host of other delicious bear forage species.

Everyone likes cherry pie but the native black cherry is probably not the source of the filling except in the most rural areas where the trees provide abundantly for the taking. The stone size relative to the flesh is pretty big and most of the fruit goes to the birds or survivalists.

That leaves us with persimmons and paw-paws, two popular but localized favorites. Talk about underutilized, well they are the ones. Each has its own particular charms and you needn't be ashamed if you never heard of one or the other. This also means you are not a Kentucky native or from one of its neighboring states where their use in season is pretty common. If you ever have the chance to try either of these native fruits don't be shy. They each have a rewarding and unique flavor that deserves more frequency at any table. I say bring back the megafauna which were theoretically responsible for their distribution in the first place! We'll make room!

Smooches, Celeste