Apple
is also a fruit. Let’s not forget that. Even though in today's
world it may have technological connections in the laboratory of
plant breeders it is still a comestible and it’s a ridiculously
versatile one, making appearances, some surprising, in many dishes.
In the American tradition you have used or consumed it in a betty, a
crisp, a crumble, a cobbler, a grunt, a buckle, a slump, a sonker, a dowdy or
even a pie, to name a few of its many baked incarnations. It pops up
in desserts all over the place and even makes cameo appearances in
main dishes or salads. Waldorf anyone? We ought not ignore the
foreign contributions to this effort, such as the tarte tatin
where the ingredients are simple but the process is somewhat
complexified to the point where the entirety is the apotheosis of
each ingredient. Really: sugar, apples, flour, butter, egg yolk and
an optional lemon. The final combination is essentially brilliant but
beware that the apples are the right type to ensure that those big
chunks don’t disintegrate in the baking.
This
commentary also pertains to our native fruit, which the common apple
IS NOT! Even as widespread and adapted as its reach is today, it was
not found on the shores of North America when the first immigrants
landed. They brought their own plants or seeds and from there the
diversity multiplied readily, so much so that legends were created
and careers made by its propagation. Its tasty precursor in very
ancient times was the medlar, a primitive form of tree fruit that has
to be practically rotten before it is used. The delightfully
descriptive adjective “bletted” describes this state of
near-decay. Needless to say medlars never really clicked like apples.
Some
of our neglected native fruits deserve a little attention too. If we
limit ourselves to trees, that eliminates scuppernong and concord
grapes, cranberries, beach plums, raspberries, blackberries,
cloudberries, blueberries and a host of other delicious bear forage
species.
Everyone likes cherry pie but the native black cherry is probably
not the source of the filling except in the most rural areas where
the trees provide abundantly for the taking. The stone size relative
to the flesh is pretty big and most of the fruit goes to the birds or
survivalists.
That
leaves us with persimmons and paw-paws, two popular but localized
favorites. Talk about underutilized, well they are the ones. Each has
its own particular charms and you needn't be ashamed if you never
heard of one or the other. This also means you are not a Kentucky
native or from one of its neighboring states where their use in
season is pretty common. If you ever have the chance to try either of
these native fruits don't be shy. They each have a rewarding and
unique flavor that deserves more frequency at any table. I say bring
back the megafauna which were theoretically responsible for their
distribution in the first place! We'll make room!
Smooches, Celeste
